Welcome to a new week!
One of the décor items I love to use are pillar candle holders and candlesticks. I have acquired a variety of them from different places, including a few from Pottery Barn.
I have a couple of pillar holders that I’ve had put away because they weren’t my favorite. I decided to give them a little makeover to reflect a knock-off combination of PB’s Architectural Candle Holders that they’ve sold over the last couple of seasons.
Their spring line includes these:
The first part of the process is painting the pieces using a dry-slap technique.
2) Dip your brush slightly into the paint.
3) Dab off the excess.
4) Get a good grip on the brush near the ferrule.
5) When you dry brush, you will normally apply a light coat. This is true in this case as well, but the first coat will have more coverage, with less coverage for additional coats.
A dry-slap technique requires you to hold the brush at a straight angle and “slap” the brush in horizontal strokes or vertical strokes (depending on what part you are painting) in a short, quick motion.
6) You can see that while I applied a little more as the base coat, I still left some of the original finish showing.
7) When painting an edge, lip, narrow protrusion, you will turn your brush and do the same short, quick motion vertically.
8) Here is the first coat after it is finished. You can see that a good portion of the original finish remains exposed.
9) The second part of the process is exposure. This is KEY.
You may remove part of the paint to expose more parts of the original finish but you must wait for it to get to a certain drying point. If it is too wet or too dry, it will not work.
At room temperature, it will take about 90 minutes for the paint to get to the right dry point.
You can use a clean rag or paper towel and rub off the areas where you want more exposure. I generally do most of this BEFORE I apply the second and third coats as it will give it a more layered look.
10) Then, for a much more subtle, chippy look, apply painters tape, and rub in different areas using firm pressure.
Then peel it off quickly like you would a band-aid.
11) Finally, use your fingernail (through a rag or wearing gloves) and scrape the surface to exposure the original finish.
All three techniques create a variety of exposure looks so it appears as though it has worn over time and by different causes.
12) Here is the finished product!
- Chalk paint, milk paint, or a paint with similar consistency works best for this method. I have used latex paint as the base coat for this technique but rather than expose the original finish as described, I used a sanding block (which will not give it the same look.)
- The colors used above are Annie Sloan Chalk Paint (ASCP) in Paloma for the base, French Linen for the second coat and Old White for the final round. The French Linen and Old White were applied sparingly using the same technique. I used these colors for spring, but I’ve done this same technique on lamps and other projects in a darker version.
- You do not need to wax, but if you do, be sure that the paint is 100% dry and that you do not buff until the wax is completely dry as well. You run the risk of “smearing” the paint and losing the dry brush appearance/finish.
Have a great day!
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